A 60 year old design classic
With the "Thor's Hammer" off the front of the legshields, you will see that the Chetak is just a Sprint or similar body with some very minor differences.
The toolbox of course is very different, it is bigger yet slightly slimmer than a PX one yet utilises the same locks as a Vespa model.
The cowls on the engine side are identical in fitment to a Sprint or similar model, Bajaj actually did a favour for those out there in that they left the cowl arm clips as a potential if you wondered what those two blinded off holes were in the usual place where a PX panel clip was fitted, no doubt somewhere along the line I would imagine there was a clip available to be bolted in place there allowing the use of the spring clip type Rally or GS panels and yes GS panels fit fine and actually look very smart on that back end as it happens.
The next best thing to consider is that Bajaj like LML use a much heavier grade steel than Vespa did, this explains why Bajaj's are a little slower especially when their power output is higher than a PX125, the Bajaj's are geared to take the extra weight, the weight of the driver and passengers, in India it was not uncommon to see a whole family sat on the Bajaj with kids sat on special seats that fitted in the stepthrough or using the toolbox as a "bumholder".
The rear shock mounting plate is identical to the Vespa as is the engine cavity and petrol tank cavity, thus making interchangeability of parts excellent. I have in mine a LML 2011 tank with the oil tank removed but has the sender unit for the Vespa fuel gauge which is designed so cleverly that you only need one long wire from tank to speedo to communicate.
The heavier steel is very well treated too, my 1999 model is literally rust free and is used daily on these terrible and dirty roads here in rural England, I do Waxoyl once a year as I would like it to remain rust free and for a decent Waxoyling you will need to take the tank out, the brake pedal out, the horncast off which will give you access to all parts of the "tunnel" where most of the rust would stem from, liberally coat it in there until you are assured it has covered where you want it to be and then under the back cavity of the petrol tank, spray liberally there where the shock is bolted to the frame, get underneath the engine cavity and you can either underseal using car underseal and a brush or again Waxoyl paying special attention to bolt hole areas, seams etc where surface rust can creep in. From the front of the scooter you will be able to do the tunnel behind the legshields giving it a damned good coating as this is the area most prone to water and salt getting in, gently move wiring and cables aside to coat an area then once done replace all removed items and allow to "cure". For the floor underside I would recommend using rust inhibiting stone chip in brush or spray form or bitumen based underseal as this area gets the stones and chips that can turn a rust free scooter into a rotten tomato.
I would definitely recommend replacing the rear shock from the Bajaj one to a Sebac or similar aftermarket one, the Bajaj ones are quite harsh and tend to lend a bonegrinding ride in pothole Britain, not too soft though but an adjustable ride one is excellent as for local work you could have it harder and for longer motorway work on the way to rallies have it set a bit softer for extra grip.
The toolbox of course is very different, it is bigger yet slightly slimmer than a PX one yet utilises the same locks as a Vespa model.
The cowls on the engine side are identical in fitment to a Sprint or similar model, Bajaj actually did a favour for those out there in that they left the cowl arm clips as a potential if you wondered what those two blinded off holes were in the usual place where a PX panel clip was fitted, no doubt somewhere along the line I would imagine there was a clip available to be bolted in place there allowing the use of the spring clip type Rally or GS panels and yes GS panels fit fine and actually look very smart on that back end as it happens.
The next best thing to consider is that Bajaj like LML use a much heavier grade steel than Vespa did, this explains why Bajaj's are a little slower especially when their power output is higher than a PX125, the Bajaj's are geared to take the extra weight, the weight of the driver and passengers, in India it was not uncommon to see a whole family sat on the Bajaj with kids sat on special seats that fitted in the stepthrough or using the toolbox as a "bumholder".
The rear shock mounting plate is identical to the Vespa as is the engine cavity and petrol tank cavity, thus making interchangeability of parts excellent. I have in mine a LML 2011 tank with the oil tank removed but has the sender unit for the Vespa fuel gauge which is designed so cleverly that you only need one long wire from tank to speedo to communicate.
The heavier steel is very well treated too, my 1999 model is literally rust free and is used daily on these terrible and dirty roads here in rural England, I do Waxoyl once a year as I would like it to remain rust free and for a decent Waxoyling you will need to take the tank out, the brake pedal out, the horncast off which will give you access to all parts of the "tunnel" where most of the rust would stem from, liberally coat it in there until you are assured it has covered where you want it to be and then under the back cavity of the petrol tank, spray liberally there where the shock is bolted to the frame, get underneath the engine cavity and you can either underseal using car underseal and a brush or again Waxoyl paying special attention to bolt hole areas, seams etc where surface rust can creep in. From the front of the scooter you will be able to do the tunnel behind the legshields giving it a damned good coating as this is the area most prone to water and salt getting in, gently move wiring and cables aside to coat an area then once done replace all removed items and allow to "cure". For the floor underside I would recommend using rust inhibiting stone chip in brush or spray form or bitumen based underseal as this area gets the stones and chips that can turn a rust free scooter into a rotten tomato.
I would definitely recommend replacing the rear shock from the Bajaj one to a Sebac or similar aftermarket one, the Bajaj ones are quite harsh and tend to lend a bonegrinding ride in pothole Britain, not too soft though but an adjustable ride one is excellent as for local work you could have it harder and for longer motorway work on the way to rallies have it set a bit softer for extra grip.